A Rainy Day in Oxford (Without rain)

Journal and train tickets

View from the train window (you can see my iPhone)

Two weeks ago, I was invited to attend an event in Oxford. The event--which, for several reasons, I won't describe here--lasted from 10am to 5:30pm, which meant that I wouldn't get to see much of the actual city. I therefore decided to book a room on AirBnB, allowing for exploration the following day. It seemed like the perfect setup, until life got in the way and threw me a few curveballs (described below).

Bike parking lot as I left the train station

Crossing a river on my walk to the venue

Walk with ponies during our lunch break 

The event was really interesting, but extremely draining. By the end of the day, I was exhausted and a bit anxious, so much so that I was considering bagging the entire "adventure" aspect of the trip and taking a train back to London that evening. These were the things making me ambivalent about staying the night and exploring the next day:

1. I'd asked two of my London friends to join me in Oxford, but other responsibilities got in the way and neither was able to make it. I wasn't sure I wanted to explore Oxford alone. 
2. The weather had been beautiful the day of the workshop. However, I'd been tracking the forecast all week and heavy rain was predicted ALL of the next DAY. I wasn't sure I wanted to explore Oxford alone in the rain. 
3. Our event ended with a [delicious] dinner out, which ran late. I received a text from my AirBnB host that she needed me to be at the house by 8pm sharp. When I told her that wasn't possible, she sent a series of very passive aggressive/downright rude texts. I wasn't sure I wanted to stay in this angry woman's house to then explore Oxford alone in the rain the next day.

Who wouldn't feel better after THIS dessert?

However, by the end of dinner, I was feeling revitalised! Of course I was going to stay! I would make the best of this! I would have a Rainy Day in Oxford! I bid my friends goodbye and headed off to find my host (at a cinema) to collect the key to the house--our negotiated plan. Walking from the restaurant to the cinema and then to the house was my first real exposure to the city center. Right away I LOVED Oxford! 

I wound my way around enormous cathedrals and ancient buildings, glowing in the moonlight and street lamps. There was an energy present that was at first hard to understand or describe. Then I realised that even though it was nearing 11pm, the streets were alive with people--not rowdy, drunk students, but people biking, groups chatting on benches, and women running (even though it was after dark). I walked over cobblestone streets and eventually arrived to the street listed in my AirBnB app. I fumbled with the key in the pitch dark (unfortunately my host had failed to leave a light on for me, so I wasn't entirely sure I was trying to get into the right house). Luckily, I made it inside, went upstairs, and fell promptly to sleep. 

When I woke up the next morning--as was promised--the rain was falling heavily. I packed up my small backpack, made my way downstairs, offered my thanks, and quickly left the house. I'd not felt comfortable or particularly welcomed, and was relieved to be outside, even though it meant being in the cold, wet rainy mist. 

A building that was at the end of my street

I traveled back toward the city center, walking slowly, stopping to peer into shop windows and ventured into an antique store.

LOTS of books

Purses, dressers, shoes, jewellery

Turns out tea has been a thing in England for quite some time

I ended up buying little gifts and enjoyed chatting with the shop keepers. I left with a smile on my face, but my stomach rumbling. I knew my next stop: The Covered Market for coffee and breakfast. Apparently, the Market has been around for over two centuries. It's most recent architectural renovations were in the 1770s. On my way I discovered that Oxford is beautiful even in the rain...

Someone setting up the punts on Magdelen Bridge 

Peeking into the Botanical Gardens
(you can see the raindrops bouncing)

"What are you looking at?"

I arrived!

The stalls and shops were just opening when I first entered "building." I took a stroll up and down each aisle, watching bakers lay out ingredients, grocers arrange produce, and shopkeepers set up displays. I also took stock of my breakfast options, comparing menus and prices.

Setting up the cake shop

Setting up the pasta shop

Setting up the flower shop

My cafe is the one on the left side (Brother's Coffee Bar)

In the end, I settled on the little cafe that seemed both reasonable in price and busy with customers (always a good sign).

I looked at the information I'd collected on my iPad as I enjoyed my coffee and breakfast sandwich. I'd identified several activities I could do in the rain (including exploring the Covered Market), so finishing the items on that list seemed like a good place to continue. Then, I'd play the rest of the day by ear. 

By the time I cleared my plate and cup and reentered the market's streets, everything had come to life!

There was a spring in my step as I walked off to find the Pitt Rivers Museum (my next stop). The feeling of independance I had from staying overnight, planning, eating alone, and navigating the streets by myself was massively empowering!

Miraculously, as I walked, the clouds cleared and the sun emerged! I looked at my weather app. The forecast had completely changed! Sun was predicted for much of the afternoon! I did not alter my plan since I really wanted to see the museum, but I did pick up my pace a bit. 

Quintessential Oxford Street: Bikes, Church with spire, student reading, flowered trees  

I think I may have an obsession with bicycles

New life

There were lots and lots of graveyards in Oxford

Look at that blue sky

There were actually little kids playing in this graveyard, running among the tombstones. For some reason, I thought this was strangely beautiful 

The Pitt Rivers Museum is housed in the back of the Natural History Museum...

Outside of Oxford's Natural History Museum

Inside of Oxford's Natural History Museum

The Pitt Rivers Museum was the coolest museum I've ever visited. Hands down. No contest. I loved it! It is basically one GIANT room (three floors) of stuff from all over the world. The objects are grouped by theme (how they are made or used) as opposed to by cultural origin or age. "This focuses our attention on the creativity and skill with which humans have tackled the common problems of daily life, and adjusted to the environment in which they live," explains the brochure. 

SO FREAKING COOL

In case you didn't catch it from the above photo, HOW COOL IS THIS?!

Some of my favourite displays included...

SHOES

DOLLS

My other favs not pictured here were Surgical Instruments (thank god I was born in the 21st century), currency, and toys (e.g. ball games). Other displays included: Smoking and stimulants; masks and performance; Transport and navigation; Musical Instruments, Eye glasses, and SO MUCH MORE! 

I could have spent a week wandering the maze of display cases, but the thought of the sunshine compelled me to make my way back outside.  The sun was even brighter and the skies even bluer! 

I'm so pretty! Oh so pretty...

The Bridge of Sighs 

Next stop: The Bodleian Library, one of the oldest public libraries in the world. You have to pay and take an hour-long tour in order to see inside, but I was happy enough wandering through the courtyard and foyer. 

Doorway in the coutyard 

You can see bicycles lining the entire perimeter of the fence 

To take advantage of the weather, I made my way to The University Church of St. Mary the Virgin, which guidebooks told me is the highest building on High Street. For a £3 fee, you can climb a winding staircase to the top, offering a view over the rooftops and city streets.

The building dead ahead is the church

View from the entrance to the church (in one direction) 

View from the entrance to the church (in the other direction) 

I entered the church, payed my fee, and began the climb

Coming to the top of the first landing

Window view

It was worth the climb 

It was easy to tell why Oxford is called the City of Dreaming Spires 

Peace

Uhh... vertigo 

Back in the courtyard, I decided it was time for a lunch break. The Church had a cafe with indoor and outdoor seating. I opted for the Soup of the Day, which I enjoyed in the lovely garden. 

View from my seat

Yum

With soup in my belly, I continued my sightseeing. 

Christ Church Meadow 

Plenty of company in the afternoon sun

I was impressed by the ivy growing on the side of the wall

THESE UNIFORMS ARE EVERYTHING.

This is the back of the Botanical Gardens, which was visible as you leave Christ Church Meadow (and therefore didn't have to pay)

I felt like I had ventured back in time as I watched these school boys playing cricket 

As the afternoon wore on, I wanted to explore one of the Colleges. 

 I knew nothing about the Oxford College System prior to my trip. I did some research online and have learned the following information (thanks Wikipedia!):

• Oxford has 38 Colleges and 6 Permanent Private Halls (PPHs) of religious foundation.
• Colleges and PPHs are autonomous self-governing corporations within the university, and all teaching staff and students studying for a degree at the university must belong to one of the colleges or PPHs. 
• These colleges are not only houses of residence, but have substantial responsibility for student teaching. Generally tutorials (one of the main methods of teaching in Oxford) and classes are the responsibility of colleges, while lectures, examinations, laboratories and the central library are run by the university.
• A typical college consists of a hall for dining, a chapel, a library, a college bar, senior, middle (postgraduate) and junior common rooms, rooms for 200–400 undergraduates as well as lodgings for the head of the college and other dons. 
• College buildings range from the medieval to modern buildings, but most are made up of interlinked quadrangles (courtyards), with a lodge controlling entry from the outside.

This might be a good time to add a few notes of personal observation. I loved Oxford. I really did. But it felt--for lack of a better word--very elitist. I have NEVER seen more "keep off" and "keep out" signs. Truly. Never in my life. Everything--the grass and lawns, for example--was gorgeous, but you weren't allowed to touch or walk on it. I have NEVER, EVER seen more doors and gates with locks. Everything was locked. In order the enter any of the Colleges, you needed to pass through a guard station... giant walls surrounded these mini-campuses. 

The result of this system and these formalities is that an Oxford University experience is quite different to any other (for a number of reasons), but one of them is that you are never actually alone. As college/university students in the US, we became accustomed to the fact that--as of 5pm--there were not any adults or staff left on campus. Residence halls are monitored by students. We could come and go between dorms and academic buildings as we pleased. The idea of signing in and out of your room seems super outdated to me and almost more like a fancy boarding school than university. 

ANYWAY, Magdalen College (pronounced Maudlin), is one of the most famous. It was supposed to be absolutely beautiful--a "must see." I followed a map to where I thought the entrance would be. Turns out I was wrong, but I did get to take in some nice views while I was lost. 

 Finally, after walking up and down the High Street and asking several different people, I found the entrance. I went into the guard office, paid a fee, and signed in. Worth it!

Just inside the first gate

WOWOWOWOWOW

It was silent as I walked through the corridors. There were "No Entry" signs in every passage 

Through an archway and into another green space

Spring has sprung 

Crossed a little moat

Crystal blue skies

It was so incredibly peaceful 

Can you imagine if this was your own little private study/living space?

I sat in this tree chair and journaled for about 45 minutes, reflecting on my independent explorations 

DO NOT CLIMB ON TREES... they know me too well!

The sun was definitely winding down as I left 

Back on the High Street, I contacted the host of the previous day's event. She had very graciously offered to host me at her apartment for dinner and to show me around her College (St. John's).

Inside her College 

Chapel 

Meeting room 

Study space

This was one of the coolest trees I've ever seen

As we walked, she needed to use her keys at least 7 times. SEVEN TIMES. And that is WITHIN her own college 

It was absolutely gorgeous. Watching the sun set across the beautifully manicured lawns (remember though, don't step on it!) was one of the most peaceful moments I've had in a long while. Dinner was superb, and we spent almost two hours enjoying food, leftover wine, and great conversation.
As I dashed off to the train and began my journey back to London, I was proud of myself for my decision to stay and beyond grateful for the overall experience. Traveling alone was grounding and empowering, and I vowed to do more of it before I head home in just 3 short months.